In a gritty, bustling area of lower Manhattan, who could have foreseen the nostalgic allure of a retro Korean diner, one echoing the establishments once frequented by Seoul’s taxi drivers? Thankfully Kisa Sikdang is now accepting a limited number of reservations, but it is here that diners queued for hours, eager for a taste of the eatery’s unassuming yet sublime dishes—a nod to the city’s unquenchable appetite for authentic, soul-warming fare.
In New York City, a slice of Seoul has been perfectly carved out with Kisa Sikdang, a diner that mirrors the unpretentious charm of Korea’s 기사식당 or “driver’s diners.” These spots, a haven for weary taxi drivers, are celebrated for their simple, yet satisfying fare. NYC’s Kisa captures this spirit with a meticulously crafted retro ambiance that whisks patrons away to 1980s Korea. The decor—a delightful juxtaposition of 80s-style lace curtains, vintage photographs, traditional Korean calendars, and even an old-style clock—enhances the authenticity. Vintage TVs and wall-mounted fans, the latter brilliantly held together with tape, contribute to the nostalgic atmosphere.
The menu, written entirely in Korean and displayed prominently on the wall, completes the immersion, making diners feel as if they’ve stepped into another era and continent. This attention to detail, coupled with delectable dishes, ensures that Kisa Sikdang delivers an authentically Korean dining experience, reminiscent of a local eatery from decades past.
Kisa Sikdang is adorned with a strikingly authentic Korean signboard reading 기사식당 (Kisa Restaurant) and made its lively debut earlier this year in the bustling Lower East Side of New York City. Known simply as Kisa in English (which translates to taxi driver in Korean), the signboard proudly boasts phrases like 백반전문 (specializing in home-style meals), 소문난 기사식당 (famous kisa restaurant), and 동남사거리 원조 기사식당 앨런 대로 역전 앞 (kisa restaurant at the east south intersection at Allen Street Station).
What’s Kisa Sikdang?
Kisa restaurants in Korea are lively hubs that cater to drivers dealing with unpredictable traffic, which often disrupts regular meal times. These spots are known for their affordable, quick-to-serve dishes like sizzling grilled treats, comforting soups, hearty stews, and crispy pork cutlets. While they mainly serve middle-aged male drivers, they also welcome curious passersbys looking for a tasty, hassle-free meal.
Hidden in unexpected corners, finding these eateries can be an adventure, offering a taste of authentic local flavor away from the usual spots. Drivers, experienced in navigating their cities daily, have a keen understanding of the best places to eat. Taxi drivers, in particular, know the top dining spots from the mediocre ones. In this dynamic food scene, quality and word-of-mouth are crucial—earning a driver’s praise is a mark of excellence. For kisa diners to survive and thrive, they must offer both exceptional and affordable food, making each visit a delightful experience.
The Team behind Kisa Sikdang
photo by @ihatealexlau
Kisa NYC was founded by a team of Korean Americans who grew up in Atlanta, the same group behind C as in Charlie, a beloved Noho spot renowned for its fusion of Korean and Southern cuisine. Their innovative menu quickly made them one of the trendiest destinations in the area, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand in Fall 2023. While patrons raved about the Korean flavors at C as in Charlie, the team felt they weren’t offering truly authentic Korean food. They envisioned a restaurant that provided a genuine Korean dining experience, just like in Korea.
Thus, Kisa Sikdang was born in the Lower East Side, known as Manhattan’s last remaining “retro town,” where the 1980s, 1990s, and 2000s coexist. President Steve Jaewoo Choi, along with his partners David Joonwoo Yun, Yongmin Kim, Kove Lee, and Chef Simon Youngju Lee, formerly of Jua, aimed to deliver not only authentic Korean dishes but also the full cultural experience of dining at a Korean restaurant.
The Menu
Since opening in April, the restaurant has quickly become a Manhattan landmark. The restaurant operates from 5 to 11 PM, mostly without reservations. Every day, enthusiastic people line up well before the 5 p.m. opening, sometimes enduring a two-hour wait. The menu showcases Korean-style set meals, following the “one person, one menu” principle. Described as “a quintessential Korean dish accessible to all,” it offers a hearty meal with rice, soup, and side dishes. There are four set meals to choose from: bulgogi, spicy stir-fried pork, spicy stir-fried squid, and barley bibimbap, each priced at $32. Each meal comes with seven side dishes, all served together on a single round steel tray. You can refill the kimchi for free, but side dish refills will cost you.
Appetizer – Fried Nurungji (누룽지)
After you’re seated and place your order, you’ll be served fried nurungji (누룽지)—the crispy rice crust that forms at the bottom of the rice cooker or pot. Stir-fried with oil and a touch of sugar, it offers a delightful blend of sweetness, savory richness, nuttiness, and crispiness—a truly delicious delight!
Soup of the Day and Rice
Beef soybean paste soup (소고기 된장국) and rice came out before our main dish, but the soup will vary depending on the day. The soup has a generous amount of beef. Unlike the more famous doenjang stew, it offers a milder flavor but still carries a sharp, salty umami taste with a hint of spiciness afterward. Overall, the soup was quite enjoyable.
Bulgogi (불고기 한상)
With the rising popularity of Korean cuisine, isn’t everyone familiar with the taste of bulgogi by now? This bulgogi had a wonderful smokiness and tasted just like my mother’s, featuring a delightful balance of sweet and salty.
Spicy Pork (제육볶음 한상)
The spicy stir-fried pork had the perfect kick, with a harmonious blend of sweet, savory, and smoky flavors. It’s ideal for wrapping in lettuce and savoring with a glass of soju. Often hailed as the ultimate soul food for Korean men, this dish is my favorite at this restaurant. Be sure to request a side of lettuce if you are not asked.
Stir-fried Squid (오징어볶음 한상)
The squid is incredibly tender and paired with perfectly cooked vegetables, but I wish it were a bit spicier, like the spicy pork dish. Nonetheless, it was amazingly delicious again with the smokiness you only get from a real charcoal grill. You won’t be disappointed.
Bibimbap (보리비빔밥한상)
Kisa Sikdang hasn’t forgotten about vegetarians. With barley rice, radish kimchi, assorted seasonal vegetables, and perilla oil served alongside tofu soybean paste, this dish is perfect for vegetarians looking to fully enjoy Korean cuisine. Add meat for a surcharge.
Seven Banchan
Banchan will vary by season and by day. Here is what we were served:
Potato Jorim – Braised potato and beef in sweet soy sauce
Sausage & Fried Rice Cake Skewers – Sausage & fried rice cake brushed with gochujang sauce
Roasted Seaweed – Crunchy seaweed imported from Osan Market, Korea
Kimchi – Fermented napa cabbage with salted anchovy and Korean chili flake
Mung Bean Jelly Salad – Housemade jelly, carrot, scallion, and bean sprouts with seaweed puree dressing
Soy Marinated Shrimp – Raw shrimp cured in soy sauce with shiitake, onion, and garlic
Omelet Roll – Traditional Korean egg omelet with carrot, onion, and scallion
My favorite banchan was the Sausage & Fried Rice Cake Skewer, which I requested refills for twice. The sausage had a bulgogi flavor and was absolutely delicious. Another favorite was the Soy Marinated Shrimp; the subtle soy sauce seasoning made it incredibly tasty, and I also asked for a refill. All seven banchan were excellent, each resembling individual tapas, making the $32 price tag well worth it.
After enjoying your meal, don’t miss the free coffee machine next to the entrance. The disposable cup will drop automatically once you choose your to-go drink—options include adlay tea, hot chocolate, or coffee. These tasty drinks will provide the final smile after a truly delightful evening reveling in a wonderful taste of old Korea.
205 Allen St, New York, NY 10002
646-866-8622
Sun – Sat: 5 – 11pm
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