In the words of Pete Wells of the New York Times, Korean restaurants have remade New York’s fine dining scene, ending the long running supremacy of French cuisine in the city. An incredible feat by the talented young chefs heading the dozen or so Korean fine dining restaurants currently thriving in Manhattan. After making the rounds, hitting the best options for Korean fine dining on both coasts of the US, our new favorite is an omakase-style chef’s table called Bōm.
Tucked in the back room of sister restaurant Oiji Mi, Bōm NYC is full of pleasant surprises. Bom is the Korean word for Spring, but Bom also stands for ‘behind Oiji Mi’. Brian Kim is the chef and owner of the two restaurants, both of which opened after the closing of his much-loved first restaurant in the East Village called Oiji. From its start in 2015, the East Village spot was a hit, and many local diners miss the low-key casual spot that won Kim his first fan base.
Bōm is an intimate setting for just 17 patrons around a grand U-shaped chef’s counter made of violet marble. The restaurant feels larger than its dimensions due to its vaulted, beamed ceiling and generously sized seating arrangement.
Unlike most high-end tasting menus, where there are highlights and lowlights, at Bōm, every dish is amazing. From the selection of the best ingredients to the artful presentation and execution of each course, Bōm presents Korean cuisine with freshness, elegance, depth, and even a sense of humor. About three-quarters of the way through the rarefied meal, you are served a tray of some downhome Korean comfort food, lest you forget the foundation from which all this creativity originates.
On the other side of the counter, a dedicated chef will guide you through your dining experience over 12 or more courses. This setup not only allows guests to observe the chef’s techniques but also offers direct insights as they share knowledge about the cooking process and the ingredients used.
The culinary journey at Bōm NYC starts with an array of lovely small bites and appetizers, with a focus on seafood and in-season vegetables.
The subsequent courses utilize the countertop grills to spotlight Bōm’s selection of premium meats, aged through various techniques. Highlights include a thirty-day dry-aged ribeye served with an optional Périgord truffle, celeriac, and nabak kimchi (water kimchi), as well as A5 Miyazaki beef complemented by oiji (pickled cucumber), chive, and muchim (spicy cucumber salad).
The meat-centric portion of the meal transitions to a delightfully old-school Korean hansang charim, a simple but meticulously prepared tray featuring the heart and soul of Korean cuisine: soup, rice and banchan. To complete the dining experience, pastry chef Celia Lee offers innovative desserts that finish the meal on a high note.
Bōm NYC is a celebration of Korean American culture, a love letter to Korea’s rich flavors, and a bold statement in the world of fine dining. The sequence of courses showcases a wide range of authentic flavors that resonate deeply with the soul of traditional Korean cuisine. As Kim’s third success in NYC, Bōm has hit a sweet spot, infusing a warmth and familiarity that are rare at this level of dining.
In the world of fine dining, the costs seem to know no limits. The prices at Bōm are less than places like Benu ($420 per person), Jungsik ($295 per person), and Atomix ($395 per person), but still eye-popping at $275 per person. Nevertheless, if you are looking for a special occasion splurge that is truly one to remember, take a trip to Bōm.
Bōm NYC
17 W 19th St, New York, NY 10011
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