Walking into a Buddhist temple for the first time, I was blown away by the blanket of color hanging overhead. The sun bounced off endless rows of paper lanterns, creating an ethereal kaledioscope of color that swayed gently in the May breeze. With such a vibrant atmosphere, everyone’s spirits seemed to lift as they entered the temple to celebrate Buddha’s birthday.
Additionally, as a designer, I also paid particular attention to the hand-painted designs along the rooftops as I walked around. Intricately painted in a five color system, this traditional coloring is known as dancheong (단청) and is what sets Korean Buddhist temples apart from their counterparts in East Asian countries like China or Japan. Dancheong is based on yin and yang and the Five Elements Theory, and each color represents a direction and an element. The use of dancheong colors (in pure and mixed shades) expresses stability and peace.
Blue: East / Wood
Red: South / Fire
White: West / Metal
Black: North / Water
Yellow: Center / Earth
Recognized as a national holiday in South Korea, Buddha’s Birthday (부처님 오신 날) occurs on the eighth day of the fourth month of the lunar calendar. This holiday is celebrated and enjoyed by both Buddhists and non-Buddhists alike. Throughout Korea you will see paper lanterns and decorations along the roads, in the trees, and everywhere, from cities to the countryside. This year the holiday is on Wednesday, May 15, and I’m looking forward to seeing the sea of color once more.
The craftsmanship and attention to detail of the Buddhist temples make them feel like sacred outdoor and indoor art museums. During Buddha’s birthday, the festivities and the stunning hanging of colored paper lanterns further amps up the visual delight.
Brief History of Buddhism in Korea
Buddhism made its way to Korea in the fourth century during the Goguryeo (고구려) Kingdom and would quickly spread in popularity. By the reign of the Silla (신라) Dynasty, it was adopted as the state religion and would continue to gain momentum until the Josen (조선) Dynasty. At this time, Confucianism became favored across the country, and the practice of Buddhism was heavily surpressed.
Later, during Japan’s forcible colonization of Korea in 1910, they attempted to assimilate Korean Buddhist sects and destroy monuments and temples in favor of those in Japan. However, these attempts backfired and resulted in a revived interest in Buddhism in Korea. Today, Buddhism is one of two main religions in the country, and it is second only to Christianity.
Buddha’s Birthday Traditions
Traditionally, on Buddha’s birthday people make special visits to the temples. Many of the temples host free events and festivals open to the public, and some of them even offer a free breakfast or lunch along with tea or coffee.
In order to commemorate the Buddha’s birthday, large Buddhist banner paintings called gwaebul (괘불) are often brought out just for the occasion. Hundreds of lanterns are put up to symbolize Buddha’s wisdom and compassion, and while taking in the sites is a big part of celebrating, so too is prayer and candle lighting for those who practice Buddhism.
Another special ritual is the bathing of a baby Buddha stone statue. The ritual is based on the legend that on the day of the Buddha’s birth, nine dragons bathed his body in fragrant waters. For the ritual, guests come to an altar and the Buddha statue is cleansed with three washes. Each wash symbolizes different intentions that are intended to help eliminate thoughts of anger, greed and ignorance.
Seoul Lotus Lantern Festival (Yeon Deung Hoe – 연등회)
In the month of May, The Lotus Lantern Festival is held over a few days in Seoul. It’s a centuries-old tradition that honors and celebrates Buddha’s birthday, and numerous events can be experienced throughout the festival. From the opening lighting ceremony, to cultural performances, and lantern making experiences, there’s a little something for everyone.
The most notable event of the festival is the Lotus Lantern Parade where large lanterns and lantern floats shine throughout the city of Seoul. As a highlight of the festival, the free public parade draws large crowds. As the sun sets, the streets are illuminated and onlookers can enjoy the dreamy and surreal atmosphere for a few hours. It’s a highlight of Buddha’s birthday that can’t be missed!
- Dates: May 11th – 15th, 2024
- Address: 55, Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
- Address: 서울특별시 종로구 우정국로 55
- Website: www.llf.or.kr
Breathtaking Buddhist Temples to Visit
To get the most out of Buddha’s birthday, a temple visit is a must! With roughly 900 Buddhist temples scattered throughout Korea, you have a lot to choose from. Here are a few of my favorites, as well as some that have been on my list to check out.
Jogyesa Temple (조계사)
Considered to be one of the most iconic and important Buddhist temples in South Korea, Jogyesa (조계사) Temple is a sight to behold. It is the chief temple of the Jogye (조계) Order which represents the country’s largest segment of Buddhist population.
Located in downtown Seoul, the temple is also super accessible to travelers. With the juxtaposition of “ancient-meets-modern,” it is a unique experience compared to more reclusive mountains and countryside temples. During Buddha’s birthday, the temple truly comes alive with lanterns, and large handwritten prayers from devotees are hung between buildings.
- Address: 55 Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu, Seoul
- Address: 서울 종로구 우정국로 55
- Naver Map: https://naver.me/GeWdwPvv
Doseonsa Temple (도선사)
Established well over 1,000 years ago, the Doseonsa (도선사) Temple lies amidst the Bukhansan (북한산) Mountain. The temple site is well known for its mysterious Bodhisattva statue, which intrigues many to this day due to its lack of chisel marks that leave people stumped on how it was created.
Throughout history, the temple has played a significant part in Korean Buddhism history and culture. During the Josen Dynasty, it was declared a representative temple of Korea, and later held significance during the Buddhist revival movement that spread throughout the nation. Within the Doseonsa Temple, the Cheongdamdae-jongsa (청담대종사) Temple monks were a big driver of this revival. Today the temple is widely respected for its contributions to advancing and preserving Korean Buddhism.
- Address: Seoul, Gangnam-gu, Samyang-ro 173-gil 504, Doseonsa
- Address: 서울 강북구 삼양로173길 504 도선사
- Naver Map: https://naver.me/GaMT9UAz
Haedong Yonggungsa Temple (해동 용궁사)
Haedong Yonggunsa (해동 용궁사) Temple, or the “Korean Dragon Palace Temple,” is located on the coast near the city of Busan. Built into the cliffs, the temple has one of the most breathtaking temple views I have seen in Korea. Haedong Yonggunsa Temple is also home to some great statues, including a fun row of expressive Zodiac generals and a large and magnificent metal dragon.
Like for the other locations on this list, I recommend arriving in the early morning or later evening to beat the crowds. During sunrise or golden hours, the light will also bounce and dance beautifully off the temple and the sea, making for some extra surreal photo ops. When I first visited, the soft sea breeze and refreshing views made it hard to leave, so when you go, plan a good amount of time to take it all in.
- Address: 86, Yonggung-gil, Gijang-gun, Busan
- Address: 부산광역시 기장군 기장읍 용궁길 86
- Naver Map: https://naver.me/5IFsgIgs
Bulguksa Temple (불국사) and Seokguram Grotto (석굴암 석굴)
Designated as World Cultural Heritage Sites by UNESCO, Bulguksa (불국사) Temple and the Seokguram Grotto (석굴암 석굴) are well-preserved reflections of some of Korea’s first Buddhist treasures. The two sites are relatively near one another, and are located in the historical city of Gyeongju, which was once the capital of the Silla Dynasty.
When visiting, my strong recommendation is to take a taxi or car to the entrance and then walk the rest of the way. During the summer months, it can get quite hot and uncomfortable to walk up the hill and stairs to either destination, so early spring or fall will offer the most comfortable visiting experiences. Both places can get crowded during the day, so if you want a more peaceful and quiet stroll, aim to go during the morning.
Bulguksa Temple (불국사)
- Address: 385 Bulguksa-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
- Address: 경북 경주시 불국로 385 불국사
- Naver Map Link: https://naver.me/G6fwElyB
Seokguram Grotto (석굴암 석굴)
- Address: 238 Seokgul-ro, Gyeongju-si, Gyeongsangbuk-do
- Address: 경북 경주시 석굴로 238
- Naver Map Link: https://naver.me/5LuGRYag
Unmunsa Temple (운문사)
While I have been to many temples in Korea, Unmunsa (운문사) is one of my absolute favorites. Nestled into the mountains, the view from this temple is stunning all year round. While the grounds are full of breathtaking foliage and flowers, there is a large weeping pine tree that is the real draw. It is a natural monument in Korea, and while the exact age of the tree is unknown, from historical documents, it is presumed to be about 400 years old.
While the natural beauty is truly breathtaking to take in, my favorite part of Unmunsa are the temple buildings themselves. The building structures are well-maintained and preserved, like the Manse-ru Pavilion which is a vibrant blue hall with a beautiful painted ceiling. While a bit out of the way compared to other’s on this list, Unmunsa is worth going to if you are in the Gyeongsang-bukdo (경북도) Province.
- Address: Gyeongsang-bukdo, Cheongdo-gun, Unmunmyeon Unmunsa-gil 264, Unmunsa
- Address: 경북 청도군 운문면 운문사길 264 운문사
- Naver Map: https://naver.me/FKKOTii3